Category Archives: appetizer

a trick to make gourmet soup in six minutes

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I love making soup.

Happy, sad, stressed or bored – making soup is comforting to me. It’s that anal part of my personality that can stand and chop vegetables for hours… However, I do not have hours at my leisure at the moment. My math was a little off yesterday when I said we open ‘Italian by Night in twelve days. It’s actually 8 days away!!!!

I made this soup to have for supper tonight. It’s fast, it’s easy and it tastes like I spent all day preparing it. It took me six minutes from start to finish.

Rich Root Veg and Boursin Soup

serves 4

2 cups cooked root vegetable, mashed [use whatever you have leftover. I used buttercup squash]

2 cups chicken broth [commercial is fine]

1-150g package herb and garlic boursin cheese  [This is the magic ingredient]

Place veg and chicken stock in pot

Using immersion blender, blend until smooth

Bring soup to a boil

Reduce heat to simmer and add cheese

Whisk until well blended and you have a rich delicious gourmet cream soup.

Thanks for reading.

12 days until we launch…

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In twelve days, we will serve Italian food at the Urban Deli.

Valentine’s Day – the annual highly anticipated evening of love and, if you are a foodie, of delicious food. Restauranteur and my boss, Liz Rowe, chose to introduce her Urban Deli as ’deli by day – Italian by night’ on the most romantic night of the ‘hallmark’ year. It would not have mattered what day was chosen to launch. The same amount of thought, effort, decision-making and stressing would have happened. Valentine’s Day just amps it up.

I put the final touches on our menu one hour ago. Valentine’s Day and February’s menus are done. A year of writing, teaching, testing and rewriting recipes and here we are – twelve days away. I am pumped but nervous, at the same time.

After an intense week at the restaurant, I wanted a treat last night. Ralph and I cooked together. He made a braised zucchini salad. I made potato gnocchi in a creamy tomato and pancetta sauce.

BRAISED ZUCCHINI SALAD

serves 4 [however we ate all of it]

6 small zucchini, trimmed and sliced as thinly as possible

1/4 cup extra virgin olive oil

1/2 teaspoon sea salt and freshly ground pepper, to taste

2 tablespoons best quality white wine vinegar

dried red chili flakes, to taste

Heat olive oil in a heavy bottomed skillet, over medium high heat.

When oil is hot add all the zucchini and cover with lid.

Shake the skillet from time to time, ensuring that the zucchini is not sticking.

Allow the zucchini to braise for 5 minutes then remove cover and toss the zucchini so that you bring the browned veg to the top and allow the raw zucchini to drop to the bottom of the skillet.

Place cover back on skillet and allow to continue braising until the zucchini is soft but not mushy.

Remove from heat and season with sea salt, freshly ground pepper and dried chillies, to taste. Sprinkle with wine vinegar and toss gently.

Serve warm, room temperature or cold.

Thanks for reading

 

Gorgonzola Truffles

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Originally posted January 17, 2011

You either love blue cheese or you gag, if you come within twenty meters of it. Our house is divided. I drool at the mere thought of a lovely thick slab of this gooey rich delicacy. Whereas, Ralph once had to leave a restaurant in Florence before I had finished because he could not stomach the smell of the oozing piece of cheese on my plate. Not the brightest thing to do, if you are looking for a romantic post dinner discussion!

Whenever I am entertaining friends who enjoy a bit of ‘stinky socks’ – as Ralph jokingly describes it, I try to work gorgonzola into the menu. I always have an alternative for the more delicate palates.

GORGONZOLA TRUFFLES

makes 6 truffles

1/2 cup imported gorgonzola, cut into small pieces

1/4 cup fresh mint leaves, chopped

1/2 cup freshly shelled walnuts, toasted and chopped

In a medium bowl, mash gorgonzola with mint and nuts.

Using a small scoop, divide cheese mixture into 6 truffles.

Cover and chill until ready to serve.

1 hour before serving remove from refrigerator.

I served my truffles with orange zest in syrup. Incredibly easy and knock it out of the park delicious! That is – if you like blue cheese!

Thanks for reading.

Lemon and Mascarpone Gnocchi

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Originally posted January 16, 2012

My Christmas tree is still decorated.The thought of taking it down and packing it away is enough to send me into deep mourning. So instead of facing the much dreaded task of dissembling my beloved holiday icon, I decided to make mascarpone gnocchi.

I have made gnocchi from russet potatoes, sweet potatoes and from ricotta but never from mascarpone. I have always thought of mascarpone cheese as more of a dessert ingredient.

The savory cookies and tea breads that I baked at Christmas convinced me mascarpone in combination with the appropriate ingredients would produce rich pillowy bites of gnocchi.

I adapted a recipe calling for eggs, freshly grated nutmeg and reggiano-parmigiano, sea salt, lemon zest and mascarpone cheese combined with flour. After reading the reviews, I adjusted the flour and the cooking technique.

Mascarpone and Lemon Gnocchi -　adapted from Giada De Laurentiis’s recipe

1 cup mascarpone, at room temperature (8 ounces)

1 large egg, at room temperature

1 large egg yolk, at room temperature

1/4 teaspoon ground nutmeg

2 large lemons, zested

1 cup grated Parmesan (4 ounces)　I use reggiano-parmigiano

1 teaspoon sea salt

1 cup all-purpose flour, plus extra for forming the gnocchi

In a large bowl, combine the mascarpone, egg, egg yolk, nutmeg, lemon zest, Parmesan, and salt.

Using a hand mixer, beat on medium speed until light and fluffy, about 1 minute. Gradually beat in 1 cup flour until the mixture forms a soft dough.

Line a baking sheet with parchment paper then sprinkle lightly with flour. Divide the dough into 4 equal pieces. Gently roll the pieces of dough into long ropes 1 inch thick on a well floured surface.

Cut the gnocchi into 1 inch pieces and place them on the lined baking sheet. Refrigerate at least 1 hour or until ready to use.

Bring a large saucepan of salted water to a boil then reduce to a simmer. Carefully add the gnocchi. Many people try to boil their gnocchi leaving them with a lump of mush.　The gnocchi should sink to the bottom of the pan　and then float to the top. As soon as the gnocchi begin to float, cook for an additional 2 minutes. Drain and place in your favorite sauce.

I would love nothing better than to sit here and write you a sauce recipe for your gnocchi but, whether I like it or not, it’s time to take my Christmas tree down…

Thanks for reading.

Sun – Dried Tomato and Cheddar Tea Bread and serving up Italian

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I have been so excited to tell you this story.

A year ago, Liz Rowe, owner of Urban Deli invited me to have a chat with her, over a glass of wine, about Italian food . She dropped by the house for, what was intended to be, an hour. Five hours later…

Liz has the energy of a lightening bolt! She is sheer will power. Our first conversation ended with me agreeing to spend the next three months cooking with her, in my kitchen. She has an insatiable appetite for everything Italian. I have a limitless desire to cook Italian food. We are a match made in Italian heaven!

We cooked together, two to three days a week, for four months . One thing led to another and boom – we were discussing the possibility of me pulling my kitchen ‘whites’ out of mothballs and having some fun serving up Italian.

At this point in my life, it’s all about the fun! I thrive on hard work. I love a challenge and Italian food is my passion. Best of all, Liz is good with me blogging about it – warts and all…

Now that I am a workin’ girl again, I have to think ahead. I baked this savoury tea bread for friends who will be visiting on Sunday. The aroma while it baked would have knocked you over!

Sun – Dried Tomato and Cheddar Tea Bread

preheat oven 350*F

2 1/2 cups flour

2 teaspoons baking powder

1/2 teaspoon baking soda

1 1/2 teaspoon salt

4 ounces old cheddar, shredded

3 tablespoons fresh oregano, coarsely chopped

1 teaspoon ground black pepper

1/3 cup sun-dried tomatoes in oil, drained and chopped [reserve 2 tablespoons of the oil]

2 tablespoons butter, softened

2 cloves garlic, minced

2 eggs

1 1/4 cup buttermilk

finishing salt or Maldon sea salt flakes

Sift dry ingredients together

In a large bowl mix together dry ingredients with shredded cheese, fresh oregano, sun-dried tomatoes and pepper.

In a separate bowl, beat together the butter, reserved oil, eggs and buttermilk.

Stir in garlic and dry ingredient mixture until just mixed.

Place mixture in a long loaf pan. Sprinkle top with salt flakes.

Place in oven and bake 50 minutes.

Allow to cool on wire rack for 10 minutes then remove from pan.

Serve warm or cool completely before wrapping and freezing.

Freezes well up to 3 months.

White Bean Mash

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White bean mash –  I know - sounds disgusting. How does white bean paste sound? I think the problem is not so much the ‘mash’ but rather the ‘bean’. A lot of people think that they do not like beans. It’s that whole childhood memory of having to gag down a bowl of sickeningly sweet canned ‘beans in molasses’ for dinner on Saturday night with a couple of fried, shriveled hotdogs on the side…

I thought about changing mash to smash but that would indicate more effort than is required. I could have used puree, caviar, tapenade or mousse just so that I would be able to keep you interested enough to give this recipe a try, but the truth is that the beans are simply mashed.

I am asking you to trust me. This is one of the most versatile dishes in my repertoire. I use it as a garnish, veggie side, base for a fish stack, filling for small pastas and as a warm dip. Ignore the main ingredient and focus on the other flavours. The garlic, anchovies, chillies and sage catapult this dish into a  salty, spicy bite of perfection!

WHITE BEAN MASH

19 ounce can white kidney beans, rinsed and drained

3 tablespoons olive oil

2 cloves garlic, minced

7 anchovy fillets

dried red chilli flakes, to taste

1 tablespoon dried sage leaves, crushed

1 cup water

Place oil in skillet over medium heat.

Add garlic and allow it to sizzle.

Add anchovies and chillies and saute for 2 minutes.

Add white beans, sage and water. Bring to a boil then reduce heat.

Simmer mixture, stirring occasionally until beans have absorbed water and are very soft.

Using a fork, mash beans until they resemble lumpy mashed potatoes.

If this is your first bite of white bean mash, spread some on a bit of grilled baguette. I bet that you will have trouble not licking the pot clean!

Thanks for reading.

Christmas Pork Terrine with Pistachios and Dried Cranberries

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I love making meat and game terrines at Christmas. Taking precious bits of less popular cuts of meat, combining them with freshly ground spices, garlic, spirits, fruits, nuts and wrapping it all up in pork back fat is fascinating to me! I love the idea of creating something deliciously sinful out of such passed over ingredients.

Being married to the grandson of a British butcher, has given me carte blanche in the kitchen. I love it! There is no cut of meat that Ralph is not willing to try. Ralph’s father does a wicked ‘pressed tongue’ during the holidays that leaves all of his family clambering to get to the buffet table.

Pressed tongue was introduced to me as ‘spiced beef’, during my first Christmas with the Hooton family. On Boxing Day evening, Ralph’s mom would fill her dining room table with cold salads, hot casseroles, homemade bread and pickles along with a huge platter of baked ham and “spiced beef’.

Back then, I was a little overwhelmed with the enthusiasm of Ralph’s brothers and nephews when they were getting ready to eat. Let’s just say, ‘women and children did not come first’, when it came to Nanny Hooton’s cooking.

I stood back and watched, with great interest, as the boys built beautiful sandwiches with Maxine’s [Ralph's mom] homemade white bread, slices of baked ham and ‘spiced beef’ then topping it with Reg’s [Ralph's dad] fiery hot mustard.

I couldn’t wait to try Reg’s famous Christmas specialty. While I was savouring my first bite, I realized that all eyes were on me. As I looked around the room, I saw that everybody had stopped eating and that they were smiling at me. As I swallowed, Ralph quietly said, ‘the spiced beef is made from cow’s tongue. I wasn’t sure that you would have tried it, if you had known’.

There are defining moments in your life. Moments when you do not get a do – over. The truth was –  my sandwich was delicious. The fact that it was filled with a cow’s tongue… With all of my new family waiting, I looked Ralph’s dad square in the eyes and said, “I can’t wait for you to teach me how to make this – it’s fantastic!” And so began my journey of experimenting with lesser known cuts of meat.

Christmas Pork Terrine with Pistachios and Dried Cranberries

 3/4 lb pork fat, sliced thin

1 cup red onion, finely chopped

3 tablespoons butter

5 garlic cloves, finely chopped

1 tablespoon juniper berries

1 tablespoon coarse sea salt

1 tablespoon black peppercorns

pinch of cloves

1/2 teaspoon nutmeg, freshly grated

1/2 cup heavy cream

3 large eggs

1 lb ground fatty pork shoulder

1/4 lb ground fatty veal (preferably veal breast)

1/2 lb baked ham (1/2-inch slice), cut into 1/2-inch  cubes

1/4 lb baked ham, coarsely ground

3 bacon slices, coarsely ground

1/2 cup freshly shelled pistachios

1/2 cup dried cranberries

Using a mortar and pestle, grind juniper berries with coarse salt and black peppercorns.

Cook onion in butter in a heavy skillet over medium - low heat, stirring frequently, until soft, about 10 minutes. Add  garlic, ground juniper, salt and peppercorns and cook, stirring, 1 minute.

Transfer to a large bowl and stir in nutmeg and cloves. Allow mixture to cool completely.

Whisk cream with eggs until well combined, then add to cooled onion mixture.

Add ground meats and mix well with your hands. Stir in ham cubes, pistachios and cranberries

Line bottom and long sides of terrine mold crosswise with pork fat slices, arranging  them close together. I made two different terrines. The above photo shows my terrine mold lined with bacon rather than the plain pork fat. The bacon will produce a smokey flavour.

Fill terrine evenly with ground-meat mixture, rapping terrine on counter to compact it.

Cover top of terrine with pork fat slices to cover completely. Cover terrine with plastic wrap and chill at least 8 hours to marinate meats.

The pork fat shown above will completely melt during the baking process. It will then solidify during the chilling process to act as a natural wrap. It is then scraped away before serving.

Preheat oven 325*F 

Place oven rack in middle position

Discard plastic wrap and  cover terrine tightly with a double layer of foil.

Bake terrine in a water bath 1 3/4 to 2 hours. Remove foil and let terrine stand in mold on a cooling rack for 30 minutes.

Put a piece of parchment  over top of terrine, then place on top of parchment another same-size terrine mold. Fill empty mold with 3 lbs of weight to compress cooked terrine. Chill terrine in pan with weights at least 24 hours to allow flavors to develop.

Run a knife around inside edge of terrine and let stand in mold in a pan with 1 inch of hot water (to loosen bottom) 2 minutes.

Tip terrine mold to drain excess liquid. Place a cutting board over terrine, invert terrine onto cutting board and gently wipe outside of terrine with a paper towel. Let terrine stand at room temperature for 30 minutes before serving, then  transfer to a platter if desired and cut, as needed, into 1/2-inch-thick slices.

The terrine should keep up to 2 weeks as long as it is well wrapped.

Thanks for reading

Love and Joy

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As I worked away in my kitchen this morning baking savory cookies, I was thinking about twenty-five years ago this month. I was waiting to birth two babies. My twins were due to arrive on January 4th, 1987. Having already tipped the scale at 193 lbs, I felt that they had been ‘cooking’ long enough!

It had been months, since I had seen my feet. I rested my belly on any flat waist - high surface that I could find. My wardrobe had been reduced to t-shirts - men’s size XL, a maternity jumper and an old pair of winter boots – once again men’s size 11 and an over sized faux fur coat with gigantic shoulder pads. It was 1986 after all!

I tried to do what ever I could to coax those two, not-so-little, darlings into the world.

One of my efforts involved me taking an hour-long subway ride into Manhattan. I was living in New York City.  When I arrived at the 6th Ave and 34th St stop, I climbed up into the Christmas madness that is Macy’s during the holidays. It was wild! Although I had gained an elephant in weight, from the back I looked normal. It was not until you got a profile or front - on view that the full grandeur of my physique was obvious. I can still hear ‘look at the size of that woman’, in a New York accent, ringing in my ears. Small children would shriek and hide behind their mothers…

I fought through the crowds and purchased 54 feet of thick synthetic green garland. Unlike the artificial garlands available today, in 1986 holiday greenery was thick and lush. It took four large Macy’s shopping bags to hold my new Christmas decorations. Holding my parcels left me wider than I was thick!

I could not fit through Macy’s exit. No matter how I tried I could not fit through the door with my packages. New York was a different place before 9/11. People were not as kind. A gynormous pregnant lady garnered little sympathy from frantic holiday shoppers. Finally, Macy’s security cop held the door for me and offered some sound advice, “might be better to wait until you have that baby before you do any more shopping!” I remember being so insulted that he thought I was only carrying one baby – it would have been a 15 pounder! I should have just been grateful that he came to my rescue. I’ll blame it on all the hormones charging through my body.

After an other hour long ride back to Queens, a 10 minute walk home and two flights of stairs – nothing.

My next bright idea was to clean my windows. I thought that all the stretching might give things a jump start. I was up and down on a ladder for a solid hour and still no action. “I might as well clean the outsides, too.” My livingroom windows sat at the same level as my fire escape. I climbed out of the window - picture a 200 lb woman squeezing through a narrow window casing – not pretty!  I cleaned the windows and then when I tried to pull the window up, so that I could go back inside, it was stuck! No matter how I pulled on that window, it would not budge. So there I was, stuck on my fire escape, in the middle of December, crying. Not because I was cold – not because I was locked out of my apartment. I was crying because I could not get those babies to leave the nest!

Finally, on the morning of December 27th, 1986, I knew that they were coming out to play! My labour lasted 32 hours. I was exhausted and yet totally energized. Seconds after they were born, the attending nurses layed the girls on top of me. In the moment when I first looked into their eyes, my world was changed forever.

Every year since, despite my excitement about the holidays, I am a little weepy. Not weepy in a sad way but rather a joy full way. Their birth was the happiest day of my life. Christmas is a constant reminder of the beginning of our journey together. I am deeply grateful to be a mother – to Kaitlin, Meaghan and Sara.

I love you, little girls.

As you can see from the photos, I have been busy baking savory cookies and tea breads. Once you have a good base, you can substitute whatever flavours you like. I baked savory shortbread, sun-dried tomato and provolone tea bread, black pepper and provolone biscotti and cheddar cheese thumbprints. My kitchen smelled amazing! All of these cookies and the tea bread freeze perfectly so, you can make them ahead of time and serve when you need them.

Savory Shortbread

makes 6 Dozen

2 1/4 cup all-purpose flour

1/2 tablespoon hot paprika

1/2 teaspoon cayenne pepper

2 teaspoons sea salt

1 cup butter, chilled and cut into small pieces

2 cups old cheddar, shredded

1/2 cup milk

In the bowl of a food processor, place flour, spices and salt – pulse to combine

Add the butter and pulse until it looks like coarse meal

Transfer flour mixture to bowl of stand mixer

Toss shredded cheddar with flour mixture

Add milk and mix until mixture forms a ball and has pulled away from the sides of the bowl

Divide dough in half and form into 2 long cylinders 2″ wide

Wrap in waxed paper and chill for one hour

Preheat oven 350*F

Slice cookie dough into 1/4″ slices and place on parchment lined cookie sheets 1″ apart

Bake until golden 12-14 minutes, rotate cookie sheets halfway through baking time

Cool on wire rack and store.

These cookies will keep up to 2 days in an air tight container or in the freezer for 3 months.

Thanks for reading

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Christmas Salad and a shooting star

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I was ten years old when I started to question whether Santa Claus was real. I remember the sick feeling I had in my stomach, as I struggled to make sense of the whispers that I was hearing at school.

As a child, I was very private about my family life. The person I presented to the world had little in common with my parent’s daughter. It was painfully clear to me that my love for Christmas was better kept in my heart than shared in the schoolyard!

By the time school finished for the holidays, I had been convinced. I decided not to share my loss with Mom and Dad. I could not bring myself to let them know that ’the jig was up’! I went about my days fulfilling all of the Christmas tasks that Mom set out for me – helping with the decorating, baking and gift wrapping.

It felt very empty.

One of our family’s traditions was to spend Christmas eve delivering gifts to my grandparents, aunts, uncles and cousins. We did not spend a great deal of time with our extended family so it was an evening that I looked forward to all year-long. Not to mention, that it also kept me from busting with excitement while I waited for Christmas morning! I loved being in the company of my family, seeing their homes decorated for the season, exchanging gifts – sharing time together… As we left each home, someone would say, ‘I hope Santa finds you!’

I watched as my brother Paul grinned with excitement. He believed…

My heart was aching.

That year, Christmas eve was one of those perfect winter nights – the air was still, the snow was crisp and the sky was filled with a kazillion stars. As we were walking back to our car, my mom suddenly screamed. I had been looking up at the stars so I thought she had fallen. She grabbed Dad’s arm and pointed at the sky. It’s really important to understand that my mom is not a story-teller. She has never told a fib in her life!

‘George look – he’s right there. We have to get home quick!’

There was a huge cluster of stars directly above of heads. I looked up and out of the corner of my eye, I saw the flash… brilliant, fleeting but I saw it.

As we made our way home, I could feel my heart filling with absolute certainty that Santa Claus was real. Since that night, my faith has never wavered.

Thank you Mom.

Ralph and I had friends in for dinner last night. This is the third time that I have served this salad in the last two weeks – time to share!

Christmas Salad

serves 4

1 fennel bulb, trimmed and sliced as thinly as possible

2 navel oranges, zested and sectioned, removing membrane [save all juice]

1/2 lb asparagus, blanched, sliced in thirds and chilled

1/4 red onion, sliced very thin

2 tablespoons white wine vinegar

1/3 cup extra virgin olive oil

1/2 teaspoon sea salt

1 teaspoon Dijon mustard

1 teaspoon orange syrup [ you can substitute sugar]

In a small bowl, whisk together white wine vinegar, mustard, salt and syrup or sugar.

Slowly whisk in the olive oil.

Toss fennel, asparagus, red onion and orange sections with saved juice.

Pour vinaigrette over vegetables and toss well.

Plate salad and garnish with orange zest tossed with a little chopped fennel fronds.

Thanks for reading.

Best Spinach Salad in the World – just sayin’

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I realise my title sounds a little over the top but trust me this recipe is a keeper! It is perfect to serve over the holidays when you want to indulge in decadent foods. Serve it as a starter to a formal dinner party or as the main at a luncheon.

Ralph and I love to entertain over the holidays. There is something magical about inviting our family and friends into our home and sharing the excitement of the season.

It leaves us feeling very blessed!

The Best Spinach Salad in the World

serves 6

preheat oven 275*

6 large handfuls of baby spinach, washed and dried

375g fresh mozzarella, divided evenly into 6 portions

12 thin slices proscuitto

2 tablespoons butter

3 medium vine ripe tomatoes

1 clove garlic, sliced into slivers

1/2 teaspoon dried thyme

2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil

sea salt and freshly ground pepper

Halve tomatoes and place in small baking dish

Divide garlic slivers between tomato halves – pushing slivers into the tomato

Drizzle tomatoes with olive oil, sprinkle with dried thyme and season with sea salt and pepper.

Place in pre-heated oven and roast for 2 hours.

While the tomatoes are roasting, wrap each portion of mozzarella with 2 slices of proscuitto, making sure none of the cheese is exposed. You will feel like you are making a snow ball!

Place wrapped cheese balls on a plate, cover with film wrap and refrigerate for 90 minutes

Prepare vinaigrette and set aside.

Tomato Balsamic Vinaigrette

1 T. minced shallot

1/2 cup tomato juice

1/4 cup balsamic vinegar

1/4 cup olive oil

sea salt and freshly ground pepper, to taste

Combine the ingredients in a small pot and mix well. Let stand, loosely covered at least 1 hour before serving to allow flavours to heighten.

Place pot over low heat and warm slightly before serving.

To assemble salad:

Melt butter in a large skillet and bring to a froth

Place mozza wrapped balls in hot butter and brown evenly – cheese should still be firm.

Remove skillet from heat and place seared cheese balls on a small baking sheet and finish in the oven with tomatoes – about 5 minutes – you want the cheese warm and soft not totally melted

Add vinaigrette to the skillet with browned butter and whisk well.

Add spinach to the skillet and toss well – the heat from the skillet is enough to slightly wilt the spinach.

Divide spinach into 6 portions

Top with mozza ball and baked tomato half.

Serve immediately.

This salad is absolutely delicious! The tomato, soft and bursting with garlicky juice, the mozzarella, warm and gooey wrapped in crispy salty proscuitto - nestled on top of perfectly dressed slightly wilted greens. It is heaven on a plate…

Thanks for reading.