on with the next twenty

As much as I love to travel, I loathe the traveling part. Two days before we are actually en route my stomach starts to churn. Then there’s the waking up in a panic because I know our passports are missing. Ralph’s absolute favorite is the roller coaster bed ride, the night before we leave, caused by me checking our alarm clock every twenty-five minutes to ensure that we don’t sleep in and miss our flight even though we rarely leave before noon in an effort to calm my angst!

Just so you don’t think I am wacko, let me tell you about our journey to Greece this time….

We arrived at the Saint John airport promptly one hour in advance of our flight to Toronto. We would have a short three-hour lay-over before boarding our direct flight to Athens. I was unusually calm – that should have been my tip-off! As I was chatting up the Air Canada representative at the check-in counter, I noticed his bubbly demeanor had become intensely grave. He slowly slid my passport across the counter and without looking at me said,”I can’t let you board this air craft. In order to clear customs in Greece, you are required to have a passport valid for ninety days after your Greek departure. It was September 7th. My passport would expire in November. I was 45 days short.

I assured him that I would take my chances with the Greek authorities. Reluctantly, he checked me in. Without speaking to each other, Ralph and I entered security. As we sat there pretending we weren’t having internal melt downs, we could see the AC representative from check-in making his way towards us. “You won’t be cleared through in Toronto. If we allow you to make the journey, when you arrive in Greece you’ll be fined 10,000.00 Canadian dollars and unable to leave the airport until it’s paid.”

We were escorted out of security. Instantly the AC representative took charge of the situation by rerouting us on an early flight the following morning with a 12 hour lay-over in Montreal. Not as convenient as our original itinerary but at least we were still going. He explained that in extreme cases Passport Canada could issue an emergency passport.  It was 12:15 pm. The office was an hour and a half away. I would need to stop for new photos and the passport office closed at 4:30 pm! We left immediately.

We arrived at the passport office looking slightly out-of-place in our “we’re on our way to Greece” clothes at 3:05 pm on a Friday afternoon. One hour and twenty-five minutes before they were due to close for the weekend. After I told my heart breaking story to the top of the government employee’s head, she looked up at me and said, “that will be $187.00 and there is no guarantee it will be finished today. We require 24 hours.”

Up until this point, I had been relatively calm. “I just got off the phone with Ottawa and they assured me that if my husband and I risked our lives by driving like lunatics from Saint John that you would INDEED issue me a new passport TODAY.”

With no reaction to my outstanding performance she told me to check back at 4 pm. And so for 50 minutes we sat and prayed that the travel gods would shine upon us and fix this calamity. At precisely 4 pm, I checked at the desk and the gods had shone. Now all we had to do was get to the airport the next morning at 4:30 am and we’d be good to go. Another night of clock checking!

We landed in Montreal on time and spent the day waiting in the National Bank lounge. At 6 pm we made our way to the departure gate only to find that the flight would be delayed two hours due to a lighting issue. At 8 pm, we were informed the flight would not leave until 3 pm the following day because the ‘issue’ could not be fixed. We stood in line until mid-night to receive a voucher for a ‘fleabag motel’. We skipped the line up for the shuttle bus, grabbed a cab, checked in, order really bad pizza, and ate dreaming about our missed reservation at the 5 star Athenian hotel. At 9:30 am, we were back at the airport awaiting our flight. Somehow between clearing security and entering the National Bank lounge I had lost my boarding pass. It was only a 200 meter walk!

At 2 pm, as we were once again walking to our departure gate, we heard what sounded like a riot. A mob of exhausted, angry travelers, were screaming at – you guessed it! – our gate attendant. We had lost our gate due to a mix up in scheduling and the Montreal airport was attempting to find another gate for us to board from. Absolute chaos broke out, guards were called in, several passengers were removed from the flight then finally a voice over the intercom directed us to a new departure gate.

Fifty two hours from our original departure time, we settled in to our ‘upgraded’ seats – thanks to the wonderful AC representative in Saint John. From the moment we took off our journey eased into a beautiful anniversary celebration.

laying on a beach in Paros

Ralph and I spent a lot of time staring at the magical Aegean Sea giving thanks for our lives and the joy we have shared together with our family and friends.

Now it’s time to go home and get on with the next twenty…

Thanks for reading.

the food of Paros, Greece

You thought I was kidding about the fishline…

We took a short ferry ride from Paros to Antiparos to spend the day at St.Giorgio Beach and have lunch at Captain Pipinos.

We arrived at what appeared to be a deserted beach, save for two topless French grandmothers sunbathing and chatting up a storm. As we neared lunch hour, the beach started to fill up. By the time we made our way to the taverna, we were lucky to find a table. 

The old adage, ‘build it and they will come’ never rang more true. Locals and travellers made the journey to the furthest point of this tiny island to feast on fresh, perfectly prepared fish.

Captain Pipinos does a mean fried baby squid and a deadly grilled octopus!

Our lovely hostess at the Kalypso Hotel insisted that we try Siparos Seaside Restaurant. In her opinion it is the best restaurant on the island. I couldn’t resist…

Unlike most of the other lunch spots, this upscale eatery came complete with linen and elegant stemware as opposed to the paper tablecloths and stubby shot glasses we usually found. Ralph was suspicious due to the lack of octopus and fish being displayed. I, on the other hand, love an adventure!

 Siparos offers both Greek and Italian cuisine. However, their sign reads ‘modern Greek cuisine’.

Ralph went with Greek…

I strayed off to Italy…

The terrine was a capanata topped with a local soft cheese. It was as good as it looks!

I was tickled when my ‘vongole’ arrived with the tiny dime-size clams that I fell in love with in Sorrento.

Ralph giggled when the waitress explained to me that the pasta would be difficult for me to finish, especially if I planned on spending the afternoon at the beach. Wearing a bikini does not get in the way of me enjoying my lunch!

We rarely order dessert at lunch but while Guilda was describing this delectable sweet to us earlier that day, she was drooling. I’m drooling as I savour the memory of the buttery, flakey crust and the cheek sucking lemony filling.

I can’t say that our chi-chi lunch was better than the humble lunches we usually enjoy. They’re different. The wonderful thing is that every meal that we have had in Paros has been incredible.

Thanks for reading.

what’s for lunch today?

Lunch hangs waiting to be cooked seaside in Piso Livadi.

Whenever Ralph and I are scoping out a beach for the day, we look for the taverna with the ‘clothesline of octopus’. Greece is amazing for having fantastic tavernas on the remotest of beaches. Even when the beach is not busy, the taverna’s kitchen is fully stocked with fresh vegetables, local cheeses, grilled meats such as lamb, pork, beef, chicken and rooster, fish and seafood, wood oven breads and fruit. The portions are massive so we often share several side dishes with one order of either grilled octopus or squid. We love the classic Greek salad of ripe juicy tomatoes, crisp cucumbers, salty Kalamata olives topped with creamy local feta sparingly dressed with local olive oil and a sprinkling of dried wild oregano. You can taste the Mediterranean sunshine in every bite!

Along with the salad, we might have chickpeas slow cooked in terra-cotta or taramosalata, a stunning dip of dried cod roe mixed with garlic, mashed potato and olive olive oil. We follow this with freshly caught -  literally the cook takes our octopus off the line – seafood simply grilled and dressed with a little olive oil. When we have finished, the waiter will often bring a generous plate of sliced fresh watermelon ‘on the house’. 

These simple seaside kitchens ‘knock-it-out-of-the-park’ every time because their food is local, fresh and lovingly prepared.

Thanks for reading.

Rome

Roma was the final chapter in our Italian odessey.

Despite the soaring temperatures, train loads of tourists, wild traffic, brutal car exhaust and sore feet, under the watchful eye of Julius Caesar and countless other famous Romans, we were still game to hunt for the best food that we could find.

I ordered artichokes every chance I got…

Not kidding!

Jewish style artichokes are deep fried until they are totally crispy. I have never had anything but exceptional food in Trastevere which was the old jewish community of Rome from the end of the Roman Republic to the end of the 15th century.

There is nothing that does not taste delicious on crostini!

Unless ofcourse you don’t like liver – I love it!

Stuffed zucchini blossoms were on every menu…

This pasta was dressed heavier than most but it was delicious.

I loved the use of arugula and pecorino as a garnish. It is just the right taste of salt and pepper.

It was hard to walk by the shop windows with these gorgeous sandwiches stacked and ready to go.

The four of us have shared this dream for a long time. We had as much fun planning our holiday as we had actually being there. I feel a tremendous sense of gratitude that we acheived what we had hoped for. A once in a life time magical Italian holiday with dear friends.

I am once again completely inspired – time to get cooking!

Thanks for reading.

Tuscany was magical

So many wonderful things were happening that by the time we left Venice for Florence, it was clear to us that we had a guardian angel. We named her, Meg: Patron Saint of Prosecco. We paid homage to her/it as often as we could!

After three days of Michelangelo, da Vinci, the Medici clan, Ponte Vecchio and haggling over prices for hand made leather goods, we traveled deeper into the Tuscan countryside. I have been telling the girls stories about Cortona for so long, I hoped that I had not embellished.

They were enchanted.

They loved the artisans, shops, trattorias and the steep ancient roads but most of all they loved the tall shuttered windows!

The food in Tuscany is superb but if you are unfamiliar with the language you could run into disappointment because the menus are not always well translated. Happily, I was given carte blanche on restaurant selection. We had a ball!

The key to success during a gastronomic marathon is moderation. We shared our dishes to ensure that we were able to taste as much as possible without needing a wheel barrow to get around. OK – I might not have always shared…

Pici is a thick hand rolled pasta typically served with a wild boar or duck sauce. Ristorante Degli Archi in Montepulciano serves a killer pici carbonara.

Etruscans apparently cooked en papillote… it was a stunning presentation of pici with truffles.

Nothing makes me smile more than a breathtaking plate of fresh pasta waiting to be devoured! I had fresh tagliatelle with a sauce of cherry tomatoes, basil and pecorino all wrapped up in Tuscan prosciutto. This was one of my non-sharing moments!

 The drive from Cortona to Monteulciano is stunning. There is eye candy as far as you can see.

 We stopped at my favorite vineyard, Avignonesi and lucked into a tour and tasting.

 After lunching in Montepulciano, we carried on to Pienza, home of Pecorino cheese.

After four culinary magical days, we left for Roma.

Thanks for reading.

Thanks to Christie for the great photos

we began in Venice

Spending an Italian holiday with three of my closest friends is a bucket list scratch.

Each of us has experienced life changing on a dime. Knowing that this opportunity may never happen again inspired us to live in the moment. The chances of four women spending eleven days together without a hiccup only happens when you collectively commit to not stress about anything.

That is exactly what we did.

From being whisked to Hotel Carlton Capri via water taxi to sipping Aperol Spritz beside the Grand Canal, we felt like we were all sharing the same beautiful dream.

Our gondola ride, Walks of Italy tour guide, Andrea D’Alpaos, lazy long lunches, Rossinis on a rooftop terrace, aimlessly wandering through the Venetian nights, and pizza made Venice an absolutely perfect way to begin our holiday.

Thanks for reading.

bliss…

what’s the likelihood that four women could holiday together and find bliss…

we landed in Venice – whisked to the pier, ferried to our hotel via water taxi, two prosecco veiled days of canaled streets, gondola rides, spectacular food and deep restful nights

first class to Florence – Michelangelo and company, steamy sidewalks and star filled nights

private car to Cortona – perfection…

talk soon

ciao, ciao